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The Queen's "Un-dress"
12-17-04: OK, I finished up the coif and forehead
cloth yesterday, so the "un-dress" is all done! I modeled the coif based
on
Drea's instructions on her "Making an Elizabethan
Coif" page. I did change a few minor things to get the
look I wanted. I started with the pattern she has posted and added some
dimension where I thought I would need it. I actually made a paper coif
first from her exact pattern so I could be sure I understood the process.
Anyway, my pattern dimension ended up like this. You can get an idea of
the size if you look at the cutting board marks this is laid on. From
there I did a couple drafts, and ended up with this on the right. After I
gave it some
thought,
I un-picked this final draft and used it as a lining on the fashion fabric.
I laid both together and sewed around the edge, turned it and pressed for the
second
picture on the left. I thought I would try this rather than trying to turn
under all those raw edges! From there I ran the gathering stitches just
like Drea says to, as you can see again on the right. Once those were
pulled tight
as
she instructs, I stitched the top seam (3rd on the left). I ended up not
stitching down the top seam edges, or tacking down the gathers, because the
whole thing
fits like a clamshell clamped around my head, it's so perfect. I probably
should go back and do that sometime. From there, I turned under a casing
on the bottom edge, and strung a ribbon through there to gather it to my neck.
It fits so well that there is no chin tie at all, I just knotted the bottom edge
ribbon in two little loops on either side to keep them from pulling through.
Anyway, the finished coif is the fourth on the
right. From there, I based the forehead cloth dimensions on the length of
the front edge of the coif, cut a simple triangle, sewed it to the same lining
fabric
as
the coif, turned and pressed. It looks ridiculously small (see fourth pic
on left), but is proportionally correct, as with so many elements of this
ensemble. Not a bad morning's work! I don't believe the forehead
cloth was attached to the front edge of the coif as the one extant surviving
sample shows in Drea's
Coif Gallery. That wouldn't work to actually cover the forehead, and
to my eye, that coif is put together incorrectly anyway (damn Victorian museum
curators, how much stuff have they displayed wrong all this time?!) I wear
mine with the forehead cloth under the coif, with the long points tucked
over my ears and the center point over the top of my head. The coif fits
so perfectly that the whole thing is held snugly to my head. Check out the
gallery for pictures of me wearing it.
12-13-04: Well, I wasn't so great about taking
pictures of this process for you, sorry. But the dressing gown is done!
I cheated and drafted it off
Saragrace's Flemish
jacket pattern. I changed the neckline, added a round collar, and
lengthened the sleeves for a wider turn-back. And of course, the dressing
gown is longer. It's funny, I had to cut in a center back gore, which you
can see the top of in the second picture, because the jacket isn't meant to fit
over my hips and butt, and I didn't add near enough ease when I first cut the
pattern. What a gomer! I did a mockup of the top half only to check
the neckline and collar (which I'm still not happy with) and so didn't realize
there wasn't enough ease for the length until I had already pretty much
assembled the fashion fabric and lining. Fortunately it was very easy and
at a good place to cut in the back gore. Live and learn. I'd still
like to change the collar, it doesn't lay quite right, and I think I may shorten
the dressing gown altogether a bit, too, take the bottom tie closure off and
start the dags just above where they start now. Not sure I'll have time to
do that before the show this weekend, but I don't think the dressing gown will
end up on display, so I can do it afterwards in time for the next show at
Estrella War. Now for the coif
and head-cloth! I'll make those out of the embroidered linen to match.
11-10-04: Boy, I haven't been here for a while!
After doing some initial research on tea-dyeing, I went ahead and tinted the
lining fabric today with good old Rit Dye, Taupe 34. This seemed to be
recommended, to avoid the acidity of tea or coffee dyeing. This was
actually my first experience with Rit, believe it or not, and I have to say, I'm
really pleased with the results. It was very easy! The processes I
go through with Saragrace on the Dharma
Procyon Fiber-Reactive Dyes is much more involved. After getting this done
and out of the dryer, I looked through the
Super-Silk sample book I
borrowed from SG, and ordered some silk doupioni in Pecan Brown that complements
the lining fabric nicely, I think, without looking too similar to the gown
fabric colors. I want there to be some variety. Anyway, here's a
shot of the dyed embroidered linen with some bright white linen laid alongside
for contrast. I'm thinking I will alter the Flemish Smock pattern along
the front opening and sleeves, and add tons of ease, for the robe style. I
also want to add the serrated bottom edge that you see in the jacket shown in
the portrait of Elizabeth Vernon, Countess of Southampton, though without the
beaded edging. You can also see the ribbon ties used to keep the jacket
closed, I'll probably do something like that, too.
9-17-04: I don't really have any idea yet what kind
of robe I will make for me to wear while I'm standing around in my underwear in
front of Scottsdale Public Library patrons, but Saragrace has graciously donated
this beautiful embroidered linen to incorporate somehow. We were thinking
of maybe using it for the lining, and then the collar and sleeve turn-backs,
against perhaps a darker red silk noil or doupioni. I've been studying up
on Elizabeth R, there are some great scenes of her lounging around in bed
that I'll probably steal some ideas from.
on
Drea's instructions on her "Making an Elizabethan
Coif" page. I did change a few minor things to get the
look I wanted. I started with the pattern she has posted and added some
dimension where I thought I would need it. I actually made a paper coif
first from her exact pattern so I could be sure I understood the process.
Anyway, my pattern dimension ended up like this. You can get an idea of
the size if you look at the cutting board marks this is laid on. From
there I did a couple drafts, and ended up with this on the right. After I
gave it some
thought,
I un-picked this final draft and used it as a lining on the fashion fabric.
I laid both together and sewed around the edge, turned it and pressed for the
second
picture on the left. I thought I would try this rather than trying to turn
under all those raw edges! From there I ran the gathering stitches just
like Drea says to, as you can see again on the right. Once those were
pulled tight
as
she instructs, I stitched the top seam (3rd on the left). I ended up not
stitching down the top seam edges, or tacking down the gathers, because the
whole thing
fits like a clamshell clamped around my head, it's so perfect. I probably
should go back and do that sometime. From there, I turned under a casing
on the bottom edge, and strung a ribbon through there to gather it to my neck.
It fits so well that there is no chin tie at all, I just knotted the bottom edge
ribbon in two little loops on either side to keep them from pulling through.
Anyway, the finished coif is the fourth on the
right. From there, I based the forehead cloth dimensions on the length of
the front edge of the coif, cut a simple triangle, sewed it to the same lining
fabric
as
the coif, turned and pressed. It looks ridiculously small (see fourth pic
on left), but is proportionally correct, as with so many elements of this
ensemble. Not a bad morning's work! I don't believe the forehead
cloth was attached to the front edge of the coif as the one extant surviving
sample shows in Drea's
Coif Gallery. That wouldn't work to actually cover the forehead, and
to my eye, that coif is put together incorrectly anyway (damn Victorian museum
curators, how much stuff have they displayed wrong all this time?!) I wear
mine with the forehead cloth under the coif, with the long points tucked
over my ears and the center point over the top of my head. The coif fits
so perfectly that the whole thing is held snugly to my head. Check out the
gallery for pictures of me wearing it.
